By Arleah Baingan
If you’re familiar with the Scottish
Highlands, you can easily compare Batanes’ landscape with its dramatic cliffs,
rolling hills and green open spaces. Add
to that the charming hedgerows, warm waters of its black and white sand beaches
and sparkling ocean waves that seem to passionately kiss its dramatic cliffs,
and any traveller can readily picture a piece of heaven on earth in the
welcoming arms of Batanes islands, a small but wonderful travel destination in
the northernmost part of the Philippines.
The Hills of Batanes
Unique
culture
Batanes Islands’ people and language are
called Ivatan. Its pre-colonial past dates back to as early as 4,000 years ago
when Austronesians inhabited the islands and introduced agricultural, boat-making
and seafaring industries. The province had already a flourishing civilisation
with its own set of administrative rules, justice system and military power
even before Western colonisers reach the islands.
Incidentally Batanes’ English affinity does not
stop with its topography. English freebooters headed by William Dampier and his
Dutch crew had actually set foot in the islands as early as 1687. The three
major islands in fact were named after the English monarchs. Itbayat was
renamed Orange Isle after William of
Orange. Batan was called Grafton Isle
to honour Henry Fitzroy, 1st Duke of Grafton. Sabtang Isle was named
after the James Scott, 1st Duke of Monmouth, thus becoming Monmouth Isle. The islands though were
never claimed for the British crown.
Batanes was also invaded by the Dutch,
Chinese, Spanish, Japanese and Americans, all leaving behind part of their
culture that helped shape contemporary Batanes in terms of architecture, food, fashion
and way of life. It is always interesting to see some Ivatans with aquiline
noses reminiscent of Spaniards’ and almond eyes, a feature they got from their Formosa
(in Taiwan) ancestors.
Warm
and friendly people
The Ivatans are known for their gentle, hospitable,
warm and friendly nature, typical Filipino traits that both local and foreign
visitors take note of. People here are hard-working as well and it is not
unusual to find an Ivatan who holds two jobs. Mostly, they work as farmers and
fishermen while about a quarter of the population works for the government and
services sector.
The adage “honesty is the best policy” still
reverberates in modern Batanes and the Ivatans are also generally trusting
people. You can have a first-hand experience of this trait when you visit the Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana. If you
drop by and didn’t find anyone manning the store, the store owner must be busy
working in the field. You don’t need to wait for the shop owner. Just get the
items that you want, check the prices in the list, leave the payment in the
designated box and off you go. The shop owner trusts its customers to do the
right thing even when nobody’s looking. A sign hanging on a wall though reminds
the customers of the store’s honesty policy. It reads: “This store is too small
for dishonest people.”
What
to See and Expect During Your Visit
Natural
beauty. Breathtaking, enthralling and even heavenly
are just some of the descriptions that depict the rolling hills, landscape and
physical beauty of Batanes. You wouldn’t be disappointed even if you just
choose to sit atop a hill to have a relaxing commune with nature, gazing
through the endless green spaces covering the hills and mountains and playful
waters of Pacific Ocean and China Sea. The picture-perfect scenery is a great
backdrop for artists looking for inspiration for their next project or those
who are simply looking to capture nature’s beauty through photographs.
Rakuh-A-Payaman, also called Marlboro Country is also not to be
missed. It is a pastureland that offers a great vantage point for more
breathtaking sceneries that will surely make your journey extra-special.
Pre-colonial
structures. Pre-colonial fortresses called idjang can still be found around the
islands, particularly in Sabtang and Batan. An idjang is reminiscent of 13th
century gusuku (castle) found in Okinawa, Japan. These structures are
comparable because of the material used for its thick stone walls which were
predominantly limestone. The Itbud
Idjang is a popular spot since it is one of the highest points in the islands
and was a former settlement of the Ivatans.
Colonial
buildings. The Dominican influence is easy to spot
through the churches that still stand today like the San Jose Obrero Church in
Ivana, Sabtang and San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao both built around
1873. Other churches of note are Santo Domingo Cathedral in Basco (the
province’s capital town) built in early 18th century, Santa Maria
Immaculada in Itbayat built in 1845 and the Chavayan church which up to this
day still retains its thatched roof.
Batanes has also interesting lighthouses to
visit. Include in your itinerary the Basco Lighthouse, Tayid Lighthouse and
Sabtang Island Lighthouse.
Beaches.
The Philippines being an archipelago has great beaches from north to south.
Batanes has its ample share of great beaches for different activities. The most
popular beach destination here is Nakabuang Beach in Sabtang which is good for
picnics and appreciation of stone formations. There are also nice views along the
White Beach. Swimming is not recommended in Blue Lagoon in Mahatao but you will
surely enjoy the sights and find ample photo opportunities. Disvayangan is a
private beach but there are private picnic houses for rent. Divers can head to
Duvek Bay in Sumnanga or Siayan Island, about 5.5 nautical miles away from
Itbayat. You will enjoy the rich coral and marine life as well as the white
beaches nearby.
Ruins
and heritage sites. Volcanic activities courtesy
of Mount Iraya and other natural circumstances shaped the province of Batanes. Mount
Iraya last erupted around 325 BC. The big earthquake of 1918 left just a few
structures standing, notable of which is Vahay
ni Dakay (House of Dakay), a UNESCO World Heritage Building. It was a stone
house built in 1887 by Luisa Estrella, is now the oldest existing of its kind
in the province. It was named after Luisa’s nephew, Jose “Dakay” Estrella when
it was bequeathed to him. It is a well-photographed house which is made of
hardwood floors, lime walls, coral and stone. Its original shutters are still
intact. It has cogon roof, typical of Batanes houses.
The Ruins of Sungsung
The Ruins
of Sungsung in Uyugan town was once a row of lime and stone houses located
near beach. The community that once populated this area was devastated by a
tidal wave in 1954.
Culture.
The Ivatans have adapted very well with their natural environment which is
evident in their way of life. Instead of typical Filipino houses made of nipa,
Ivatans built stone houses to protect themselves from weather disturbances.
They also used cogon roofs to withstand strong winds. As per tradition, the
cogon roof of a typical Batanes house is changed every 30 years. Even today
where umbrellas and raincoat are readily available, Ivatan women stilll wear
the vakul, a headgear made of abaca fibre from vuyavuy palm which is used both
for sun and rain protection. Men, on the other hand, still use the Kanayi
(vest) and Salakut (hat), Kanarem and Vuhuan.
To experience the fishing culture of Ivatans,
go to Diura, about three kilometres away from the town of Mahatao during
summer. There you can witness the Kapayvanuvanua (literally, the making of the
port) ritual. This is to signify the start of the fishing season and to ask the
spirit dwellers of the sea to favour their fishing activities.
Food.
The best way to learn about a place is to try its local cuisine. When in Batanes,
you can enjoy fresh catch such as the Tatus (coconut crabs), Kanañiz (squid),
Dibang (flying fish) and Arayu (dolphinfish). The latter two are abundant from
March to May. Other local dishes to try are Luñis (their dry and crunchy
version of adobo), Hapa (their version of Bicolano’s laing, taro stalks cooked
in coconut milk and topped with dried fish) and plenty of root crops such as
sweet potato, yam, taro, ginger, garlic and onion. If you’re not that
adventurous, you can always go for classic grilled pork.
Best
time to visit
Because of its proximity to Taiwan (about 190
kilometres away), Batanes experiences four seasons and shares the same
subtropical climate like that of Taiwan’s and Okinawa’s. The best seasons are
summer from April to June and winter from December to February where
temperatures can drop to seven degrees Celsius.
Every season offers different kind of
adventure and unique experiences so it is a good year-round destination. Tourists
and travellers often visit from mid-March to June because during this period,
there is low chance of rain. Generally, from January to June are good months to
visit.
The weather often changes in Batanes so
visitors are advised to be ready for whatever surprises come their way. If
you’re adventurous anyway, then the trip to these islands is definitely worth
your while.
Exploring the island of Batan is easy. You
can rent a jeepney to explore the island. Sabtang can be accessed through a
boat ride from Ivana Seaport while Basco Seaport is the jump-off point if you
want to reach the Itbayat Island.
Travel
tips
·
Batan Island enjoys 24/7
electricity services while the other islands Itbayat and Sabtang has
electricity services from 6 AM to 12 MN so time your activities accordingly.
·
There is no nightlife in
Batanes.
·
If you have medical
conditions, bring your own medicines as facilities in the islands are not as
sophisticated as that of big cities like Manila.
·
Island hopping or not, bring
ample protection for your eyes and skin. Sunglasses sunblock and insect
repellent are travel essentials.
·
Bring cash. Your ATM cards
and credit cards are of little or no use in the islands.
·
Bring jacket if you are
visiting during winter.
·
Wear comfortable shoes.
There are lots of outdoor activities to enjoy in Batanes so expect to walk a
lot. Bringing trekking shoes is a good idea.
·
Proper documentation such as
passports, valid IDs and other pertinent papers for foreign travellers.
·
Wrap your important items in
plastic to prevent them from getting wet. Ziplocs are handy travel companion.
·
Bring your gadgets such as
camera, mobile phones and chargers. Make sure that you have enough memory cards
to capture your wonderful time in the islands.
·
Be flexible. There may be
delays in your flight and boat ride schedule so bring a good book or a music
player to keep you busy while waiting.
·
Don’t travel alone. Bring a
friend and hire a travel guide. It’s not only safer but also more fun.
·
Batanes is about one and a
half hours away from Manila by plane.
SOURCES:
According
to Health Wealth International Corporation website, one of the companies that
sell green barley in the Philippines, organic barley contains 11 times the
calcium in cow’s milk, 5 times the iron in spinach, 7 times the Vitamin C in
oranges, vitamin B12 and significant amount of chlorophyll. It also has the enzyme 2-O-Glycosyisovitexin
which is said to be “more effective as an antioxidant than beta-carotene or
Vitamin E.”
